Late summer days in Prague can get hot, sweaty and packed with tourists. All the benches in famous parks like the Waldstein gardens are taken, and views are obstructed by selfie sticks and backpacks. There are, however, a few places in the centre to escape the crowds and the city heat. One of these is the Vrtba Garden. This oasis was built in the 1700s in the baroque style as the private garden to the Vrtba family palace. A lavishly hand-painted sala terrana leads guests into the garden complex, a meticulously landscaped collection of open spaces on several levels. Original statues are scattered in fountains, and line the paths, gazing up at one of the best, and most underrated views in the city. The view from the top level of the garden is unusual to Prague, as most of the city's viewing points are well above the city centre. In contrast, this view is right in the middle of the Lesser Town, and the view platform is only a metre or two above the level of most of the buildings in the area; this provides a unique opportunity to see the rooftops of Prague 'from the inside'. We would like to live here, for the view alone; and guess what? Someone does. Just a few metres off the garden, a private terrace sits in between red roofs, drying laundry blowing in the breeze. There could be worse places to live, I guess. The garden charges a small entrance fee, but it is certainly a very small price to pay to keep the crowds out, and the the perfect landscaping in.
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It is not often that we get a 26 degree, sunny Sunday in Prague, and what better way to spend such a day than by sampling an obscene quantity of great South American food from a variety of Prague restaurants. By the river. In one of the world's most beautiful cities. Have I mentioned how great the weather was? Myself, Mark, and our friend John arrived at Nabrezi Smichov well past lunchtime, but it was packed. We scanned the stalls, mouths watering. Seeing the hundreds of tapas-style meals on offer, we decided to pool our finances and get a number of dishes to share.
I wish we could have tried everything, but unfortunately our money and stomach capacity could only stretch so far. Between the three of us, we sampled empanadas, Argentinian steak & sausage, quesadilla, paella, two versions of grilled calamari, churros and, of course, coffee to finish. Out of all this, we were disappointed only by the churros - dry, thin and sparsely drizzled with chocolate sauce, they were very disappointing. However, the same stall that we got these from (El Toro Furioso), also sold us a truly great empanada. You win, you lose. All in all, we left full and happy, and, needless to say, skipped dinner. I don't know whether this is going to be an annual event, but I certainly hope so.
A couple of weeks ago, Mark and I took a roadtrip to Marianske Lazne. I wrote about that town in last week's post. While we were there, we decided to spend one day exploring a couple of the nearby cities as well. After studying the map and bus schedules, we decided to spend a day in Cheb and Frantiskove Lazne.
Cheb is a relatively large city, with 33 000 inhabitants, and skimming Wikipedia led us to have if not high, then at least some expectations. Cheb, as it turns out, was once a centre of the Nazi movement: the Nazi manifesto, the 25 point programme, was developed here, and Hitler had visited the city.
I won't lie: we were disappointed. As we walked from the Soviet bus station into the city centre. we found a pedestrian street with a timeline running its length along the ground, transporting the curious and the bored through Cheb's events of historical significance, beginning with its first mention in 807 AD. It seems the street they picked was too long, as events such as Johann Wadmann of Cheb being the first person in history to use + and - signs, and the forced removal of the Sudeten Germans, are casually interspersed with ones such as this:
'Czech genius Jara Cimrman visits the Spalicek complex to have a few glasses of beer.' ,and the fact that in 1723 the population of Cheb was (a very specific) 6 483.
At the end of the street is the historical main square of Cheb. This square is very pretty: the colourful houses in different styles are very typical of the main square of every Czech town, but being very large, and with unusually few cars, we found this square exceptionally nice. Unfortunately, it's the only thing Cheb seemed to have going for it. We walked a little further to the main church, St Nicholas, but were disappointed again, and after a quick lunch and a piece of strudel, we headed back to the bus station, and got on the next bus to Frantiskove Lazne.
Note: I was concerned the attached photos of Cheb made it look too pretty. As I'm not interested in sharing ugly photographs, these photos are the colourful highlights of an otherwise monotone and uninspiring city.
It was clear from the moment the bus pulled into the town that we had made the right decision by leaving Cheb early in favour of spending the rest of the day here. Frantiskove Lazne is another spa town, and the concept is basically the same as that of Marianske Lazne; that is to say that you will spend time strolling through manicured forest park, from water source to water source, silly little cup in hand, sipping on salty water. Though much smaller than Marianske Lazne, this town somehow feels much more alive. Just a 10 minute bus ride from gloomy Cheb, you are transported to the French Riviera, sans sea. Grand pastel yellow hotels make up the main pedestrian boulevard, Narodni (National Street). Palm trees in large pots line the promenade, and three vintage cars, charmingly marked as belonging to the Veteran Car Club of Karlovy Vary, are the only vehicles in sight. At the end of the boulevard is a square with various mineral-water-drinking facilities, from springs, to shops selling cups and Lazenske Oplatky (spa wafers), to perhaps the most important - the public toilets. From here we walk along the paths of the expansive park, stop at each spring along our way, and watch the little yellow tourist train twist through the trees back towards the boulevard.
Like Marianske Lazne, the water here comes in many different temperatures, chemical compositions and colours. Signs indicate the mineral content and physical properties of a particular source, and we brave the foul smells, pour ourselves half a cup, and try to ignore the unappetizing colour --
At least it's good for you.
Despite all the horribleness of the taste, it's fun to spend the day trying and comparing and discussing whether the second source really tasted worse than the first one, or if perhaps the third was worst of all.
Our visit to Frantiskove Lazne was short, and although we saw everything there was to see, I think that we would enjoy coming back again, to unwind, recharge, and rest: as such, Frantiskove Lazne is our constipation-curing spa town of choice.
Last week's blogpost featured a daytrip to Kutna Hora, a pretty town with a few unique quirks. This week, the spa resort of Marianske Lazne takes the spotlight. This town prospered greatly in the late 19th century, when the likes of Edward VII, Nicholas II and Franz Josef I travelled here to drink a few bucketfuls of the foul (but apparently medicinal) mineral water from the local springs. Today, Marianske Lazne is popular with older German and Russian tourists who, like the notable visitors of the 1800s, sip warm, rusty water from spouted porcelain cups. As a spa town, Marianske Lazne has a very different atmosphere and pace from other Czech cities. This is a resort, in the fullest sense of the word: it is bright and peaceful; a place to stroll up and down the main street, Americka, or relax with your cup of water in the park, people watching and soaking in the soft, warm sunshine. It was the spring water that led to the establishment of this romantic town, and that continues to be responsible for its prosperity. There are over 100 mineral springs here, each releasing water at a slightly different chemical composition, temperature and (terrifyingly,) colour. I can't claim that during our trip we taste-tested all 100 waters, but I did insist on trying all those that we passed while walking around. Out of all those that we tried, we found a grand total of one spring (Rudolfuv), that actually tasted good. That said, the mild, or in some cases not so mild, grossness of the water is most definitely worth the health benefits: they are known to cure everything from urinary tract diseases to digestion issues. If there were ever a place to be cured from constipation in style, this is it. From the drinking pavilion to which the three most famous springs are piped, to the meticulously cared-for promenades and the Baroque colonnade, Marianske Lazne oozes relaxed sophistication and effortless class. The dancing fountain by the Colonnade performs Mozart, Dvorak, and of course, Celine Dion. There are no real significant monuments or 'things to see': this is a place to spend a few days disconnecting from agendas and enjoying lavish spa treatments and sidewalk cafes. If all the doing nothing gets to you, head to the edge of the mountain that towers over the town and hop on the funicular that takes you to the top. There, you can visit all of Czech Republic with minimal effort, at the Boheminium miniature park, which features 1:25 models of major Czech architectural sites. After visiting the miniature park, and perhaps stopping for a drink in one of the cafes at the top, make your way back down the mountain on foot. The path winds through a dark and atmospheric forest, and is a beautiful place to connect with nature and maybe have a few adventures. After the climb down, treat yourself to a well-deserved meal and a chat with the friendly owner at Medite, an outstanding tapas restaurant back in the centre of town. And for dessert, be sure to try a Kolonada wafer, the traditional Czech spa snack that originated in Marianske Lazne. Next week, I'll be writing about another Czech spa town. As always, leave your comments and suggestions for future articles down below.Not all holidays require a huge expenditure or long period of time: I'm a big fan of the common day trip or weekend getaway. Recently, I visited a few Czech towns that I will be writing about over the next few weeks. The first of these was Kutna Hora, a pretty little town about an hour's train ride from Prague. Kutna Hora literally translates to 'mining hill' - this town was an important European silver mining centre during the Middle Ages. There are three main reasons to visit Kutna Hora, besides of course circling around the pretty but unmemorable little streets of the city centre. The first reason is the silver mine. If you think visiting a silver mine means just walking on down some steps and taking a look around, you're wrong: at Kutna Hora, you're first dressed up as the ghost of miners past, paraded through the streets of town in a group of 25, dressed in lab coat-like cloaks and glossy hard hats, much to the amusement of confused tourists. But this is all part of the appeal. You are then led down a long set of stairs leading deep into the ground, where you are guided through the dark, narrow tunnels, imagining what it would have been like to work in these mines in the 13th century. It is certainly an offbeat and unquestionably memorable experience. For the hungry -- On your return to the surface, a stop for livanecky (little Czech pancakes) at cafe Luver just across the street is certainly not unwarranted. After all, all that bending over and squeezing through tiny archways must count as a workout. The two other major attractions of Kutna Hora are both beautiful and atmospheric churches - but they could not be more different from one another. The first is the Church of St. Barbora, which stands grandly on top of the hill that is the historic centre of Kutna Hora. St. Barbora was patron saint of miners, and the Gothic church stands as a reminder of the town's history and wealth when the mines were operational. For a few crowns extra, you can climb the winding staircase up to the interior balcony of the church. This is definitely worth it, and provides a fascinating and unique perspective: it is especially interesting to look up close at the angels adorning the top of the organ, which stands grandly one flight of stairs lower. Last, but absolutely not least, the most intriguing monument at Kutna Hora is the Sedlec Ossuary. For the uninitiated, an ossuary is basically a place where the bones of the dead are stored. Here, a 19th century woodcarver named Frantisek Rint took an, ahem, creative approach to storage solutions for the bones of tens of thousands of people who had been buried in the overflowing churchyard cemetery during the middle ages. Frantisek carefully arranged the skeletal remains of between 40 000 and 70 000 people into ornamental altars, garlands, coats of arms, and the centrepiece of the church, a bone chandelier containing at least one of every bone found in the human body. Even his signature was created using bones, and attached to an interior wall. It's a macabre and somewhat grotesque sight, but is also exquisite, unique, and certainly unforgettable. Come back next week for another Czech town profile! What other Czech day trips would you like to write about? Tell me in the comments below.Summertime is finally in full swing, and for me, that screams one word: picnics, and lots of them. Picnics are such a fun way to celebrate the beautiful weather, enjoy each others' company, and eat some good food in the process. They're also a great way to save money when travelling, or while out exploring, as they're usually much cheaper than eating out. Last week, Mark and I decided to open our picnic season with an Italian-inspired meal, and cooked up several light recipes to take with us. On the menu were a Caponata salad with eggplant and avocado, baked parmesan zucchini chips, and foccacias with goat cheese, pesto and prosciutto. All of these were really easy to make, and turned out really well. In addition, we also brought along some mushroom pastries that Mark's grandma sent over, some strawberries for dessert, and a bottle of wine. We packed it all up in an old picnic basket with my plastic wine glasses and a blanket, and set off. We soon realized that baskets are only really convenient if you're getting to your picnic spot by car - but hey, it looked pretty. The next challenge was, of course, to find the perfect spot. We had wanted to set it up in the apple orchard by the Strahov Monastery here in Prague, but when we got there, we found that the grass was really tall and the slope was uncomfortably steep for setting out our meal on, so we continued walking. As we walked down a quiet little street towards the city centre, I noticed some grassy steps lining one side of the street, and suggested that we climb up on them and have our picnic there, with a view of the dome of St. Nicholas Church at the bottom of the hill to one side, and of the colourful houses of Nerudova on the opposite side of the orchard to the other. We laid out our food, and watched passers-by in the midday sunshine. Of course, we had forgotten to bring a corkscrew, so we had to get creative, and after experimenting briefly with a couple of techniques suggested by Google, including the bizarre idea of banging the bottle with a shoe (is this really a thing, anyone???), we pushed the cork into the bottle, and it floated there for the duration of our meal. I find that picnics always create rosy memories and great stories. Not only that, but they're also a unique summer activity that allows you to get a little bit creative; between making and/or buying food, finding the perfect location, and eating outside with friends and loved ones, you're sure to have lots of memorable adventures. We loved our Italian picnic, and are already excited about all the ideas that we have for the other picnics that we're planning this summer. Will you be picnicking this summer? What is your favourite picnic food, and where do you go? Do you like this kind of 'diary' post? Let me know what you think in the comments below.'We shall never cease in our exploration, and the end of all our exploring will be to arrive where we began and to know the place for the first time.' The exploring never stops, not least at home. I won't be travelling for a few weeks yet, but I have been taking advantage of the beautiful weather and my new found summer holiday freedom to get to know Prague better. I'm a big fan of walking around and breathing in the atmosphere of a place, and this city is a great place to do this. Over the summer, I'm going to be walking a lot and getting to know some of Prague's prettiest neighbourhoods better.This is the first of a series of neighbourhood profiles that I will be posting, that will recommend where to go, what to see and do, eat and drink in each area. TO SEE AND DO For the first area feature, I've chosen Vinohrady, a personal favourite. If I ever were to move back to Prague for more than a few months, I would love to live in this neighbourhood. Vinohrady is named after the vineyards that used to cover the area before it was built up in the 19th century, a few of which still remain on a steep slope in the local park, Havlickovy Sady. This district has historically enjoyed prosperity, with its beautiful mid-19th century apartment buildings and tree-lined avenues. Vinohrady has a wonderfully European atmosphere, perhaps explaining why it is so popular with expats. Today Vinohrady is the considered one of the cities 'coolest' districts, with its abundance of restaurants and cafes, green space, and high end housing. The main square of Vinohrady is Namesti Miru (Peace Square), the centrepiece of which is the Church of St Ludmila, a neo-gothic basilica named after the Czech saint Ludmila of Bohemia. The church is surrounded by a small green area. At Christmas and Easter, markets are set up here, and during the summer, passers-by can pause for a game of chess at the chess set in front of the church, or simply relax on a park bench. Also on this square is the Vinohrady theatre, a grand art nouveau building that serves as one of Prague's most important theatres. After exploring Namesti Miru, one has but to pick a side street and walk along the wide, tree-shaded streets to stumble upon ornate villas, including the former residence of the first Czech president, Tomas Masaryk. Disconnect from city life in Havlickovy Sady: this is the second largest park in Prague, and a bit of a well kept secret. Stroll through the shady, atmospheric hills, admire the grounds of a beautiful neo-renaissance villa, and best of all, explore the spooky and romantic grotto. The grotto is a man-made cave complex with steps, small caves, and lookout points carved carefully out of rock. If you feel like doing a little high end furniture shopping, or just getting some interior design inspiration and exploring the inside of the historic market hall, Pavilion, which was recently reconstructed as an exhibition/ furniture gallery, complete with a custom-designed chandelier and design coffee shop. TO EAT AND DRINK If you need a break from your exploration, stop in at one of Vinohrady's many charming coffee shops. My favourites include Coffee House, which has a lovely little garden for when the weather is good, and Anonymous Coffee, a stylized cafe with a twist. If you should find yourself near Vinohrady's border with Vrsovice, another Prague district, walk just a couple minutes more to the recently opened Krafarna on Ruska street. This little room is beautifully designed, and the ice lattes are as yet unsurpassed. When you get hungry, head to {dish}, which holds the well-deserved title of serving the best burgers in the city. Other great options include Grosseto on Namesti Miru, one of a local chain of mid-tier restaurants, and Radost FX, a vegetarian cafe with a great weekday lunch menu. Have you been to Prague? What would you recommend in Vinohrady? What should my next Prague neighbourhood profile be? Let me know if you find these tips interesting or useful in the comments below.Two weeks ago, I introduced you to Bristol, the city where I now live for most of the year. This week, I want to do the same with the city where I grew up - Prague. Of course, Prague is famous as one of the most beautiful cities in Europe and the world, so it will take nothing more than a Google Images search to draw up hundreds of thousands of photos of the Charles Bridge, the Prague Castle, and Astronomical Clock. It is rarer to find photos of the things that locals love about Prague. For me, that is the streets. The old city is a maze of narrow, winding cobblestoned alleys lined with baroque churches, tiny cafes and basement art galleries. It really doesn't get more charming. It's easy to get lost in this maze, and that's kind of the point. You'll find your way eventually, and until then, relax, explore and reflect. What do you love most about your city? Would you like me to share more posts about Prague? Comment below x Until next week!
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AuthorMy name is Emilie. I live between Bristol and Prague, travel, drink coffee and explore as much as I can. Categories
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