'We shall never cease in our exploration, and the end of all our exploring will be to arrive where we began and to know the place for the first time.'
The exploring never stops, not least at home. I won't be travelling for a few weeks yet, but I have been taking advantage of the beautiful weather and my new found summer holiday freedom to get to know Prague better. I'm a big fan of walking around and breathing in the atmosphere of a place, and this city is a great place to do this. Over the summer, I'm going to be walking a lot and getting to know some of Prague's prettiest neighbourhoods better.This is the first of a series of neighbourhood profiles that I will be posting, that will recommend where to go, what to see and do, eat and drink in each area.
TO SEE AND DO
For the first area feature, I've chosen Vinohrady, a personal favourite. If I ever were to move back to Prague for more than a few months, I would love to live in this neighbourhood. Vinohrady is named after the vineyards that used to cover the area before it was built up in the 19th century, a few of which still remain on a steep slope in the local park, Havlickovy Sady. This district has historically enjoyed prosperity, with its beautiful mid-19th century apartment buildings and tree-lined avenues. Vinohrady has a wonderfully European atmosphere, perhaps explaining why it is so popular with expats. Today Vinohrady is the considered one of the cities 'coolest' districts, with its abundance of restaurants and cafes, green space, and high end housing.
The main square of Vinohrady is Namesti Miru (Peace Square), the centrepiece of which is the Church of St Ludmila, a neo-gothic basilica named after the Czech saint Ludmila of Bohemia. The church is surrounded by a small green area. At Christmas and Easter, markets are set up here, and during the summer, passers-by can pause for a game of chess at the chess set in front of the church, or simply relax on a park bench. Also on this square is the Vinohrady theatre, a grand art nouveau building that serves as one of Prague's most important theatres.
After exploring Namesti Miru, one has but to pick a side street and walk along the wide, tree-shaded streets to stumble upon ornate villas, including the former residence of the first Czech president, Tomas Masaryk. Disconnect from city life in Havlickovy Sady: this is the second largest park in Prague, and a bit of a well kept secret. Stroll through the shady, atmospheric hills, admire the grounds of a beautiful neo-renaissance villa, and best of all, explore the spooky and romantic grotto. The grotto is a man-made cave complex with steps, small caves, and lookout points carved carefully out of rock.
If you feel like doing a little high end furniture shopping, or just getting some interior design inspiration and exploring the inside of the historic market hall, Pavilion, which was recently reconstructed as an exhibition/ furniture gallery, complete with a custom-designed chandelier and design coffee shop.
TO EAT AND DRINK
If you need a break from your exploration, stop in at one of Vinohrady's many charming coffee shops. My favourites include Coffee House, which has a lovely little garden for when the weather is good, and Anonymous Coffee, a stylized cafe with a twist. If you should find yourself near Vinohrady's border with Vrsovice, another Prague district, walk just a couple minutes more to the recently opened Krafarna on Ruska street. This little room is beautifully designed, and the ice lattes are as yet unsurpassed.
When you get hungry, head to {dish}, which holds the well-deserved title of serving the best burgers in the city. Other great options include Grosseto on Namesti Miru, one of a local chain of mid-tier restaurants, and Radost FX, a vegetarian cafe with a great weekday lunch menu.