Late summer days in Prague can get hot, sweaty and packed with tourists. All the benches in famous parks like the Waldstein gardens are taken, and views are obstructed by selfie sticks and backpacks. There are, however, a few places in the centre to escape the crowds and the city heat. One of these is the Vrtba Garden. This oasis was built in the 1700s in the baroque style as the private garden to the Vrtba family palace. A lavishly hand-painted sala terrana leads guests into the garden complex, a meticulously landscaped collection of open spaces on several levels. Original statues are scattered in fountains, and line the paths, gazing up at one of the best, and most underrated views in the city. The view from the top level of the garden is unusual to Prague, as most of the city's viewing points are well above the city centre. In contrast, this view is right in the middle of the Lesser Town, and the view platform is only a metre or two above the level of most of the buildings in the area; this provides a unique opportunity to see the rooftops of Prague 'from the inside'. We would like to live here, for the view alone; and guess what? Someone does. Just a few metres off the garden, a private terrace sits in between red roofs, drying laundry blowing in the breeze. There could be worse places to live, I guess. The garden charges a small entrance fee, but it is certainly a very small price to pay to keep the crowds out, and the the perfect landscaping in.
It is not often that we get a 26 degree, sunny Sunday in Prague, and what better way to spend such a day than by sampling an obscene quantity of great South American food from a variety of Prague restaurants. By the river. In one of the world's most beautiful cities. Have I mentioned how great the weather was? Myself, Mark, and our friend John arrived at Nabrezi Smichov well past lunchtime, but it was packed. We scanned the stalls, mouths watering. Seeing the hundreds of tapas-style meals on offer, we decided to pool our finances and get a number of dishes to share.
I wish we could have tried everything, but unfortunately our money and stomach capacity could only stretch so far. Between the three of us, we sampled empanadas, Argentinian steak & sausage, quesadilla, paella, two versions of grilled calamari, churros and, of course, coffee to finish. Out of all this, we were disappointed only by the churros - dry, thin and sparsely drizzled with chocolate sauce, they were very disappointing. However, the same stall that we got these from (El Toro Furioso), also sold us a truly great empanada. You win, you lose. All in all, we left full and happy, and, needless to say, skipped dinner. I don't know whether this is going to be an annual event, but I certainly hope so. 'We shall never cease in our exploration, and the end of all our exploring will be to arrive where we began and to know the place for the first time.' The exploring never stops, not least at home. I won't be travelling for a few weeks yet, but I have been taking advantage of the beautiful weather and my new found summer holiday freedom to get to know Prague better. I'm a big fan of walking around and breathing in the atmosphere of a place, and this city is a great place to do this. Over the summer, I'm going to be walking a lot and getting to know some of Prague's prettiest neighbourhoods better.This is the first of a series of neighbourhood profiles that I will be posting, that will recommend where to go, what to see and do, eat and drink in each area. TO SEE AND DO For the first area feature, I've chosen Vinohrady, a personal favourite. If I ever were to move back to Prague for more than a few months, I would love to live in this neighbourhood. Vinohrady is named after the vineyards that used to cover the area before it was built up in the 19th century, a few of which still remain on a steep slope in the local park, Havlickovy Sady. This district has historically enjoyed prosperity, with its beautiful mid-19th century apartment buildings and tree-lined avenues. Vinohrady has a wonderfully European atmosphere, perhaps explaining why it is so popular with expats. Today Vinohrady is the considered one of the cities 'coolest' districts, with its abundance of restaurants and cafes, green space, and high end housing. The main square of Vinohrady is Namesti Miru (Peace Square), the centrepiece of which is the Church of St Ludmila, a neo-gothic basilica named after the Czech saint Ludmila of Bohemia. The church is surrounded by a small green area. At Christmas and Easter, markets are set up here, and during the summer, passers-by can pause for a game of chess at the chess set in front of the church, or simply relax on a park bench. Also on this square is the Vinohrady theatre, a grand art nouveau building that serves as one of Prague's most important theatres. After exploring Namesti Miru, one has but to pick a side street and walk along the wide, tree-shaded streets to stumble upon ornate villas, including the former residence of the first Czech president, Tomas Masaryk. Disconnect from city life in Havlickovy Sady: this is the second largest park in Prague, and a bit of a well kept secret. Stroll through the shady, atmospheric hills, admire the grounds of a beautiful neo-renaissance villa, and best of all, explore the spooky and romantic grotto. The grotto is a man-made cave complex with steps, small caves, and lookout points carved carefully out of rock. If you feel like doing a little high end furniture shopping, or just getting some interior design inspiration and exploring the inside of the historic market hall, Pavilion, which was recently reconstructed as an exhibition/ furniture gallery, complete with a custom-designed chandelier and design coffee shop. TO EAT AND DRINK If you need a break from your exploration, stop in at one of Vinohrady's many charming coffee shops. My favourites include Coffee House, which has a lovely little garden for when the weather is good, and Anonymous Coffee, a stylized cafe with a twist. If you should find yourself near Vinohrady's border with Vrsovice, another Prague district, walk just a couple minutes more to the recently opened Krafarna on Ruska street. This little room is beautifully designed, and the ice lattes are as yet unsurpassed. When you get hungry, head to {dish}, which holds the well-deserved title of serving the best burgers in the city. Other great options include Grosseto on Namesti Miru, one of a local chain of mid-tier restaurants, and Radost FX, a vegetarian cafe with a great weekday lunch menu. Have you been to Prague? What would you recommend in Vinohrady? What should my next Prague neighbourhood profile be? Let me know if you find these tips interesting or useful in the comments below.Two weeks ago, I introduced you to Bristol, the city where I now live for most of the year. This week, I want to do the same with the city where I grew up - Prague. Of course, Prague is famous as one of the most beautiful cities in Europe and the world, so it will take nothing more than a Google Images search to draw up hundreds of thousands of photos of the Charles Bridge, the Prague Castle, and Astronomical Clock. It is rarer to find photos of the things that locals love about Prague. For me, that is the streets. The old city is a maze of narrow, winding cobblestoned alleys lined with baroque churches, tiny cafes and basement art galleries. It really doesn't get more charming. It's easy to get lost in this maze, and that's kind of the point. You'll find your way eventually, and until then, relax, explore and reflect. What do you love most about your city? Would you like me to share more posts about Prague? Comment below x Until next week!
Tucked away in the trendy Vinohrady neighborhood, popular with expats and young people, is a cozy and atmospheric cafe, aptly named the Coffee House. It is cleverly set across several small rooms, giving a feeling of warmth and privacy. Best of all is the tiny courtyard filled with trees and vines. Although the selection of baked goods and cold drinks was very limited, the coffee options were certainly not. Chalkboards displayed several coffee bean options, including daily specials, for connoisseurs to choose from. Not having the expertise to make such serious decisions for ourselves, we left it to the baristas, simply ordering cappuccinos. We were left happy with our coffee, and the croissant we ordered was fresh and pleasing, despite being the only option of baked good. The place drew a cool, largely English-speaking crowd, who lounged in the heavenly garden with their laptops and espressos, making use of the free wifi and early spring sunshine. Overall, the Coffee House is a lovely hideaway in the middle of the city, where one can happily while away and afternoon with excellent coffee, enjoying the fresh air and youthful urban atmosphere.
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AuthorMy name is Emilie. I live between Bristol and Prague, travel, drink coffee and explore as much as I can. Categories
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