Last week's blogpost featured a daytrip to Kutna Hora, a pretty town with a few unique quirks. This week, the spa resort of Marianske Lazne takes the spotlight. This town prospered greatly in the late 19th century, when the likes of Edward VII, Nicholas II and Franz Josef I travelled here to drink a few bucketfuls of the foul (but apparently medicinal) mineral water from the local springs. Today, Marianske Lazne is popular with older German and Russian tourists who, like the notable visitors of the 1800s, sip warm, rusty water from spouted porcelain cups.
As a spa town, Marianske Lazne has a very different atmosphere and pace from other Czech cities. This is a resort, in the fullest sense of the word: it is bright and peaceful; a place to stroll up and down the main street, Americka, or relax with your cup of water in the park, people watching and soaking in the soft, warm sunshine. It was the spring water that led to the establishment of this romantic town, and that continues to be responsible for its prosperity. There are over 100 mineral springs here, each releasing water at a slightly different chemical composition, temperature and (terrifyingly,) colour. I can't claim that during our trip we taste-tested all 100 waters, but I did insist on trying all those that we passed while walking around. Out of all those that we tried, we found a grand total of one spring (Rudolfuv), that actually tasted good. That said, the mild, or in some cases not so mild, grossness of the water is most definitely worth the health benefits: they are known to cure everything from urinary tract diseases to digestion issues.
If there were ever a place to be cured from constipation in style, this is it. From the drinking pavilion to which the three most famous springs are piped, to the meticulously cared-for promenades and the Baroque colonnade, Marianske Lazne oozes relaxed sophistication and effortless class. The dancing fountain by the Colonnade performs Mozart, Dvorak, and of course, Celine Dion. There are no real significant monuments or 'things to see': this is a place to spend a few days disconnecting from agendas and enjoying lavish spa treatments and sidewalk cafes.
If all the doing nothing gets to you, head to the edge of the mountain that towers over the town and hop on the funicular that takes you to the top. There, you can visit all of Czech Republic with minimal effort, at the Boheminium miniature park, which features 1:25 models of major Czech architectural sites. After visiting the miniature park, and perhaps stopping for a drink in one of the cafes at the top, make your way back down the mountain on foot. The path winds through a dark and atmospheric forest, and is a beautiful place to connect with nature and maybe have a few adventures.
After the climb down, treat yourself to a well-deserved meal and a chat with the friendly owner at Medite, an outstanding tapas restaurant back in the centre of town. And for dessert, be sure to try a Kolonada wafer, the traditional Czech spa snack that originated in Marianske Lazne.